This trip happened a while back, am only having the time to write about it now. With the current travel restrictions (due to the Covid-19 pandemic situation), gone are the times where I was constantly planning my next trip. Right now, I’m sitting tight at home, to really help #flattenthecurve and meticulously recalling and reminiscing all my past travels. So even though we are not out there exploring the globe, it does not mean we can’t immerse ourselves in all these amazing travel stories.

Note that at the time of this trip – was before the 2019 Hong Kong protests.

This marks my second trip to Hong Kong. My first was when I was really little, we followed one of those tour groups. I couldn’t really remember anything any other than having really good dim sum and feeling cold. This time round, I was there to attend my friend’s wedding and I took the opportunity to explore around but this time without participating in any kind of tour.

City

I personally found Hong Kong city itself quite intense – things are moving so fast, people are everywhere. Probably avoid if you are highly claustrophobic. I wouldn’t say I had a claustrophobic scare but I did feel a bit stressed at times. I mean I consider myself city savvy but Hong Kong was a bit too much for me. There are two parts to visiting Hong Kong – Kowloon peninsular (in land) vs Hong Kong island. Hong Kong island is the site of the previous British settlement, hence you’d notice the architectural style of the buildings are quite different than those in Kowloon. A lot more modern and hip cafes / hotels around to pique your fancy. Also, the infamous “Lan Kwai Fong” known for their nightlife and home to many quirky bars. We’ve visited one such bar, called Quinary – had some interesting cocktails (some award winning).

Kowloon on the other hand is a little bit less vibrant and is less touristy in my opinion. For this trip, we stayed in Kowloon. Another type of nightlife exists here – the night markets. Overall, it is without doubt that Hong Kong is famous for its skyscrapers. Walking along, I can feel it towering over me and was overwhelmed at times. I felt like the entire sky above me was just blocked by massive grey/brown buildings. Luckily, not too far from the cities, there are parks and hills which makes a great break from the vast amount of tall buildings you see everywhere in the city. Many people have been to Victoria Peak for a glimpse of the city view in Hong Kong island. Only a few would venture out to Lion Rock. I personally really liked the hike I did in Lion Rock. At the peak, you’re treated with the view of both Kowloon city and Hong Kong island which was a plus for me.

To add on to the already congested city, Hong Kong also boasts their very own Disneyland for those of you who didn’t already know. It is located in Lantau island, about two hours away from Kowloon island. Hong Kong is also really close to Macao, a special administrative region of the People’s Republic of China. Macao is worth a day’s visit if you’re staying in Hong Kong for a longer period.

Other areas worth exploring in Hong Kong city includes the coastal areas on both sides (Avenue of Stars and Victoria Harbour). It has some awesome views – there is just something about the night’s city lights reflected on water. Not far from the promenade, you can also pay tribute to Bruce Lee – a statue erected in remembrance of the star. Crossing between Kowloon and the island is made easy with such a convenient transportation system. The MTR line in Hong Kong is nothing but impressive – informative and punctual. Alternatively, you can also take the ferry across for a more scenic view which I personally enjoyed.

Food

I love my food but honestly I had a tough time enjoying it in Hong Kong. The order of things is pretty impressive really. Almost any eatery that you visit during peak hour, there will be a line of people waiting outside. Space is scarce in Hong Kong so the area inside the restaurant is maximised for paying customers. After you have patiently waited in line and you have reached the end, it is almost always assumed that you should already know what you’ll be ordering the moment you are seated. Food arrives and you eat as quickly as you can. No time for chatter, I wasn’t trying to eat quickly but everywhere around you, things are moving fast so it almost pressures you to. The bill arrives and you’re done! Phew!

Albeit rushing through most of my meals in Hong Kong, food was definitely one of the reasons I travel to Hong Kong for. The majority of people in Hong Kong are descents of Han Chinese, as am I. Hence, the taste of most of their dishes are very familiar. Like Paris, I could not get enough of the food here. I especially love their “wanton” dish – the noodles, it’s unlike any of the “wanton” noodles I’ve tried back home in Malaysia. The “wanton” dish here is really is just egg noodles with dumplings. A humble dish, but when made to perfection – oh so satisfying!

You cannot leave Hong Kong without at least having one “dim sum” meal. “Dim sum” is something like a Chinese version of tapas. Dishes usually served during a “dim sum” meal includes a variety of steamed dumplings, rice rolls, steamed buns and some meat balls. However, these days it has evolved, introducing fried dumplings, desert puddings and pretty much any new type of dish which can be shared. Tim Ho Wan is the famous “dim sum” restaurant who got it’s Michelin star for its dish – baked BBQ pork buns. So be sure you try those while you satisfy your “dim sum” meal

Other signature dishes worth mentioning are the beef noodles and the roasts. The beef broth is out of this world – it might be a bit too strong for some. Even for me, after a while my tongue was numbed by the richness of the broth. The roasts here I’m referring to is the infamous roast goose, “siu ngoh” roasted to perfection! The expectation for the roasts here usually includes its crispy skin with a flavourful layer of fat beneath it and tender meat that isn’t too gamey. This applies to the other meats (chicken and pork). With enough days to explore Hong Kong, it is highly recommended to try them all.

People

The city, cramped with people and tight spaces, it’s not surprising that the people I found here were slightly uptight. There is an order to things and people tend to get upset when the order is slightly disrupted. Needless to day, I didn’t find the people here to be too friendly. They will serve you accordingly but definitely won’t be going the extra mile. One such incident I observed when I went to have the beef noodle in Kau Kee, a Michelin restaurant. As we stood in line, we managed choose our meal before hand since there was a menu placed outside the shop. Once inside, we had to share a round table that sits 4 people comfortably with 4 other strangers, so there were a total of 6 of us. Our elbows were knocking each other, our legs were stroking other – it was pretty uncomfortable. Despite this, that was probably one of the best beef noodles I’ve had.

Then I heard it – The conversation between a lady with her baby nestled in a carriage basket with the lady at the counter (let’s call her counter lady). Nearing the end of the line, the “counter lady” told her that the seats are only for paying customers and if the baby was not going to be eating, the seat has to be free for paying customers. It then leaves no space for the baby, so the lady offered a solution – in which she said she will place her baby inside the carriage basket on the floor. The “counter lady” immediately answered, quite rudely – “We serve beef noodles in hot soup. If it were to fall on your baby, you cannot be blaming us” I was shocked! Luckily we were finishing our bowls and our table was located just at the entrance (there is no door, just an opening). So then the lady took our place and put her baby in a “safer” space near the entrance. Okay, so not exactly safer but where there is less chance of hot soup being spilled onto her toddler. It was one such incident in a restaurant, but I did generally observed a less friendly service throughout.

It was the general feeling I had throughout this trip, but it’s not to say that all people in Hong Kong are like that. I’m fortunate to have met really nice ones and have been friends ever since. This trip was a mix of catching up with our friends and touring around. Indeed, attending our friend’s wedding has also definitely made the trip more meaningful.

THINGS TO DO

• Without question, one of the things to do in Hong Kong is to eat. With the vast number of Michelin restaurants, best you look up and bookmark the places you wish to try. Here, I can recommend some of which I tried and liked : Tim Ho Wan (for “dim sum”), Mak Man Kee Noodle Shop (for “wanton” noodles), Kau Kee beef noodles and Kam’s Roast Goose
• If it’s not eating you fancy, perhaps it’s drinks. Hong Kong boasts many bars with award winning bartenders and cocktails. Take a walk through Lan Kwai Fong to explore further
• If you can find some time, head over to the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade at 8:00pm at night to catch the symphony of lights, a short light show, illuminating Hong Kong’s skyline.
• Do not missed out on some night market visits. I went to the famous one, Temple Street Night Market. It’s half a tourist trap – prices are okay in my opinion.
• Out of the bustling city, it might be worth to take a walk through the Kowloon Park and the Kowloon Walled city park – they do maintain a pretty Chinese garden.
• I’d recommend you take a hike and be rewarded with the view of the city at the summit, either from Victoria Peak of Lion Rock.

Off-beaten gems
(every once in a while, I will include some of my interesting finds)

1. We took a short detour to Hong Kong Arts Centre. A small but fascinating exhibit.